"Ntawm tus xib teg, nws tau txais txhua yam uas yog vim nws."
("Treasure Island" los ntawm R. L. Stevenson)
Muaj txhua yam tsev fuabtais nyob hauv lub ntiaj teb: loj thiab me, txhim tsa hauv toj siab thiab ua rau thaj av, puas tsuaj thiab rov tsim dua tshiab, zoo nkauj thiab tsis zoo nkauj heev, hauv ib lo lus, tsis muaj ib yam zoo li lwm qhov. Nov yog Larnaca Tsev fuabtais, nyob rau sab qab teb ntawm qhov av ntawm Cypriot nroog Larnaca, uas yog hu ua Finikoudes Promenade (uas yog, Hnub Promenade), txawm hais tias tsis loj npaum li cas, tab sis kuj nthuav hauv nws tus kheej txoj kev.
Ntawm no nws yog - siab tshaj plaws, ntsib lub hiav txwv, yav qab teb bastion ntawm Larnaca tsev fuabtais, uas tau pom coob leej neeg thiab nkoj!
Raws li keeb kwm pov thawj uas tau nqis los rau peb, lub tsev fuabtais hauv Larnaca chaw nres nkoj tau tsim thaum lub sijhawm King James I de Lusignan (1382-1398) kav hauv Cyprus. Lub fortress yog ib feem ntawm cov txheej txheem tiv thaiv ntawm yav qab teb ntug dej hiav txwv ntawm cov kob, ncab los ntawm qhov chaw nres nkoj ntawm Famagusta nyob rau sab hnub tuaj los ntawm promontory hauv Pila thiab Limassol cheeb tsam mus rau Akrotiri Bay.
Thaum lub sij hawm txoj cai ntawm Venetians ntawm cov kob (1489-1571), lub tsev fuabtais tseem tiv thaiv qhov chaw nres nkoj ntawm Larnaca, zoo, tab sis xyoo 1625, thaum cov kob pib los rau Turks, lawv tau rov kho nws hauv daim ntawv nws muaj niaj hnub no (raws li lub cim saud nkag mus qhia txog), sib txawv ua ke ntawm ob qho tib si Romanesque thiab Ottoman architecture. Tab sis los ntawm lub xyoo pua 18th, nws tau rov puas dua.
Nws ntseeg tias qhov loj ntawm lub tsev fuabtais ntawd me ntsis loj dua li niaj hnub no, uas tau ua pov thawj los ntawm cov hauv paus nruab nrab pom thaum lub sijhawm kho dua tshiab, mus rau sab qaum teb thiab sab qab teb sab hnub poob hauv qab txoj kev loj. Cov duab ntawm cov arches khaws cia hauv lub tsev fuabtais qhia ncaj qha lub sijhawm ntawm lawv kev tsim kho, uas yog, XIV xyoo pua. Ntawd yog, qhov tseem ceeb, cov qauv qub heev. Zoo, niaj hnub no nws yog qhov chaw ncig chaw uas, tej zaum, tsis muaj cov neeg tuaj ncig tebchaws tuaj saib Larnaca thiab taug kev raws "Hnub Alley" yuav ploj mus.
Nkag mus saib (los ntawm sab hauv) thiab hauv av.
Ua ntej tshaj, txhua lub tsheb npav uas khiav ntawm ntug dej hiav txwv tuaj ntawm no. Qhov thib ob, yuav ua li cas kom tsis txhob taug txoj hauv kev no kom tiaj li tus xub, nrog lub hiav txwv thiab lub puam ntawm sab laug, thiab kab ntawm cov tsev so, khw ntawm sab xis, hauv ib lo lus - txhua yam uas ci, muaj xim zoo nkauj thiab caw, vim li cas tib neeg tuaj nov. Thiab qhov no yog li cas koj yuav taug kev, taug kev thiab nco ntsoov khiav mus rau hauv lub pob zeb qub phab ntsa, noj los ntawm lub sijhawm, nco ntsoov thaij duab ze nws, thiab koj yuav xav pom "dab tsi tom qab ntawm phab ntsa"!
Nov yog tib lub tsev uas pom los ntawm phab ntsa.
Kuv yuav tsum hais tias phab ntsa tsev fuabtais zoo nkauj tiag tiag saib tsis dhau lub puam, yog li txhawm rau thaij nws los ntawm kev deb ntawm hiav txwv, koj yuav tsum nkag mus rau hauv dej. Kev nkag mus rau lub tsev fuabtais nyob ntawm sab hnub tuaj, hauv lub tsev ob-storey, tau tsim thaum lub sijhawm Turkish txoj cai, raws li muaj pov thawj los ntawm ob qho tib si nws cov qauv vaj tsev thiab cov ntawv sau saum toj no nkag, ua hauv Turkish.
Ib zaug sab hauv lub tsev fuabtais (qhov nkag yog pheej yig, tsuas yog 2.5 euros, ntxiv rau, koj tseem yuav tau muab phau ntawv muaj xim zoo nkauj hauv Lavxias!) Koj yuav pom lub tshav puam loj, uas muaj lub teeb txaus thiab ntsuab, uas yog, koj yuav nyob qhov twg so thiab tiv thaiv los ntawm tshav kub.
Thiab qhov no yog "sau phom"
Hauv qab daus hauv av ntawm lub tsev muaj ob chav - sab hnub poob thiab sab hnub tuaj, nruab nrab ntawm qhov uas nkag mus rau hauv lub tshav puam. Hauv chav sab hnub poob, cov neeg Askiv tau tua (raug dai) raug txim kom txog thaum xyoo 1948, thiab muaj kev nthuav qhia sib xws nyob ntawd, uas kuv tseem tsis tau pib thaij duab. Ntawm no koj tuaj yeem nce ntaiv mus rau hauv pem teb thib ob, qhov twg Hauv Paus Tsev Kawm Ntawv Tsev Kawm Ntawv ntawm Hnub Nyoog Nruab Nrab nyob - zoo heev, tab sis txom nyem heev thiab tsis txaus ntseeg. Nyob rau sab qaum teb ntawm sab hnub tuaj tis ntawm lub tsev fuabtais yog lub roj teeb ntawm ob peb rab phom qub uas tau xeb, qee qhov hais ntau dhau rau hauv phau ntawv qhia ua "sau cov phom loj". Sab qab teb ntawm tis sab hnub tuaj yog lub tsev uas muaj duab plaub, suav nrog ntau chav, uas tau npog nrog lub taw qhia Gothic. Nov yog cov duab tombstones los ntawm lub xyoo pua 14th, coj los ntawm Gothic cathedrals hauv Nicosia.
Kuj tseem muaj rab phom ntawm lub ru tsev ntawm lub tis sab qab teb thiab, ntawm chav kawm, muaj ntau tus neeg ncig tebchaws uas yees duab tawm tsam lawv keeb kwm yav dhau. "Kuv Tus Menyuam thiab Cannon" yog zaj dab neeg nrov heev.
Nyob rau sab hnub poob ntawm tis sab qab teb muaj tus ntaiv nce mus rau lub ru tsev ntawm lub tsev no thiab tseem mus rau lub tsev khaws puav pheej nyob rau ntawm ob chav. Cov no yog qhov qub tshaj plaws ntawm lub tsev fuabtais, koom ua lub tsev loj los ntawm phab ntsa siab. Lub tsev khaws puav pheej muaj plaub chav, hauv thawj qhov uas koj tuaj yeem pom cov khoom tsim los ntawm cov ntseeg Basilicas thaum ntxov ntawm 4th-7th xyoo pua. Hauv chav thib ob, cov khoom qub qub ntawm tib lub sijhawm tau nthuav tawm, thiab ntxiv cov no yog cov khoom pleev xim los ntawm cov basilicas puag thaum ub, ntau yam av nplaum, iav thiab iav hauv av, pob zeb pob zeb rau cov khoom lag luam qhob cij thiab sau rau ntawm marble. Ntawm cov phab ntsa muaj cov duab qub ntawm cov ntseeg thaum ub, Byzantine thiab tom qab Byzantine monuments ntawm Cyprus nyob rau tiam 4 -16 tiam, coj los nyob rau tiam 19 thiab thaum xyoo pua 20th. Hauv ib qho me me hauv nruab nrab, thib peb hauv kab, cov duab thaij duab ntawm phab ntsa los ntawm Byzantine lub sijhawm hauv keeb kwm ntawm Cyprus, uas yog hnub rov los rau XI-XVI ib puas xyoo, tau tshwm sim. Yog li rau cov xav paub txog keeb kwm ntawm Byzantium, muaj qee yam pom ntawm no, tab sis tsis muaj ib yam dab tsi tshwj xeeb tshwj xeeb.
Ru tsev. Kuv nyuam qhuav tos kom txhua tus tawm mus …
Hauv chav loj plaub fab No. 4, piv txwv ntawm cov iav ci ntsa iab nruab nrab ntawm lub xyoo pua 12th-18th, cov tais diav hlau thiab phom ntawm lub xyoo pua 18th-19th, nrog rau lub kaus mom hlau thiab ntaj ntawm lub xyoo pua 15th-16th tau nthuav tawm. Tab sis tsis muaj teeb meem nyuaj npaum li cas kuv tau sim, Kuv tsis muaj peev xwm yees duab ib qho ntawm qhov no. Thiab cov khoom tso tawm tsis yooj yim, thiab teeb pom kev tsis tsim nyog, hauv ib lo lus, koj tuaj yeem pom nws, tab sis koj tsis tuaj yeem nqa txhua yam nrog koj!
Duab ntawm lub txee nrog cov tais diav ceramic.
Ib zaug ntxiv, muaj ntau daim duab ntawm cov duab kos duab ntawm cov kob ntawm Gothic thiab Renaissance era (XIII-XVI ib puas xyoo). Sab hnub tuaj ntawm chav no yog chav nyob ib txwm nyob ntawm lub sijhawm Turkish (XVIII-XIX ib puas xyoo), tab sis nws yog qhov txawv txawv thiab, hauv kuv lub tswv yim, nws yooj yim nyob hauv nws. Qhov tsuas yog koj tuaj yeem ua hauv chav no yog, thov zam txim, kom pw hauv plab thiab haus luam yeeb hookah!
Thiab ntawm no yog qhov pom los ntawm yav qab teb bastion ntawm tus kwj dej thiab lub puam. Lub hiav txwv zoo li tawm ntawm ntug dej hiav txwv ntawm Anapa, uas yog, "hauv caug-tob". Tab sis, hmoov zoo, muaj qhov kev txiav txim ntawm qhov tsawg dua cov neeg.
Tam sim no koj nqis los rau hauv lub tshav puam, uas nyob rau lub caij ntuj sov tau siv rau ntau yam xwm txheej hauv nroog thiab, ua ntej tshaj plaws, ua yeeb yam, piv txwv li, ua yeeb yam "Othello" los ntawm Giuseppe Verdi, uas nyob ntawm no hauv lub tsev fuabtais tiv thaiv qhov rov qab ntawm cov phab ntsa hauv nruab nrab. tau pom ntau yam txawv dua li hauv tsev ua yeeb yam. Nws tsis yog qhov xav tsis thoob uas lawv nyiam ntau tus neeg thiab, ntawm chav kawm, cov neeg ncig tebchaws.
Tab sis cov no yog cov tsev qub qub qub qub qub qub uas nyob hauv qab lub ru tsev, uas peb nyuam qhuav mus ntsib. Thiab hauv lawv muaj lub qhov ntxa …
Qhov slab no dais cov duab ntawm daim ntaub thaiv nrog peb tus ntoo khaub lig, tab sis tsis muaj dab tsi ntxiv. Tej zaum, yog li, yav dhau los, txhua tus paub tias nws lub tsho npab yog dab tsi, tab sis hnub no … Zoo, leej twg paub?
Thiab ntawm no yog pob zeb cannonballs. Tab sis koj yuav nkim koj lub sijhawm yog tias koj tshawb nrhiav ntawm no rau rab phom ntawm lub peev xwm zoo rau lawv. Alas, rau "rab phom loj" nthuav tawm hauv lub tsev fuabtais nws yog "nag hmo".
Tab sis lawv zoo li cas. Thiab muaj cov neeg uas tau sim, txiav, ua kom zoo ib yam …
Nrog cov neeg Askiv tuaj txog xyoo 1878, lub tsev fuabtais tau rov kho dua, tom qab ntawd tau teeb tsa lub chaw haujlwm tub ceev xwm hauv nws, qhov uas cov neeg raug kaw raug kaw thiab raug txim tuag los ntawm kev dai. Qhov kev ua tiav zaum kawg no tau ua tiav xyoo 1948, tom qab ntawd lub chaw haujlwm tub ceev xwm tau txav mus rau qhov kawg ntawm Finikoudes Boulevard, zoo, thiab keeb kwm tsev cia puav pheej tau qhib hauv lub tsev fuabtais.
Peb txuas ntxiv hla lub tsev fuabtais. Nov yog phab ntsa sab qaum teb. Muaj kev txaus siab Muslim tombstones nyob ze nws.
Ntawm no lawv nyob ze.
Tab sis xyoo 1963, thaum muaj kev tawm tsam uas tau tshwm sim hauv nroog, qee lub tsev khaws khoom pov thawj tau raug nyiag lossis raug puas tsuaj. Yog li ntawd qhov kev nthuav tawm yuav tsum tau rov sib sau ua ke, yog li txhua yam ntawm nws tus cwj pwm coj txawv txawv. Txawm li cas los xij, rau Larnaca qhov no tsuas yog ib txwm muaj, raws li ib txwm muaj thiab - Kuv xav hais tias, chav nyob ntawm lub tsev fuabtais -tsev cia puav pheej no. Nws tsis meej, los ntawm txoj kev, yuav ua li cas tiv thaiv tau nyob ntawm no txhua. Ob peb lub foob pob tawg thiab … koj tuaj yeem tua ib nrab ntawm cov tub rog lossis lub plhaub poob siab. Tab sis qhov no yog li, los ntawm txoj kev. Thiab hauv Larnaca nws tus kheej kuj tseem muaj kev sib raug zoo heev "Tsev khaws puav pheej ntawm Owls", qhov twg cov pliaj pliaj thiab lawv cov duab puab tau nthuav tawm, lub tsev khaws ntaub ntawv tshuaj, uas tau qhib txhua ob hnub hauv ib lub lis piam, tab sis rau cov kws tshaj lij nws yog qhov nthuav heev, lub tsev khaws khoom qub qub hauv tsuas yog peb chav, tab sis nrog kev nthuav dav loj ntawm txoj kev, chav kos duab, qee lub tsev khaws puav pheej ntiag tug, qhov twg nws tsis paub meej tias yog vim li cas thiab vim li cas, tab sis … nws tau nthuav tawm, txawm li cas los xij. Thiab txawm tias cov ntawv me me heev nrog cov ntaub ntawv nthuav thiab daim duab qhia chaw … tsuas yog rau cov kws tshawb fawb! Yog li txhua yam yog rau cov neeg ncig tebchaws! Nkees ntawm kib ntawm lub puam - mus thiab pom, txhua qhov nyiaj tau los!
Ntawm no, nyob hauv qab nthab, muaj 122-mm Krupp howitzers, tab sis lawv tau tawg thiab xeb heev uas kuv tsis coj lawv tawm ntawm qhov loj dua.
Feem ntau, koj yuav taug kev raws txoj kev Larnaca - nco ntsoov mus rau lub tsev fuabtais no. Lub caij ntuj sov yuav los sai sai, thiab vim li cas - yog tias koj, ntawm chav kawm, tau npaj mus rau Cyprus, tsis pom qhov kev nyiam ntawm nws?!
Tab sis dab tsi tshwj xeeb tshaj yog zoo hauv Cyprus yog lub tsheb tavxij. Rau lub qhov rooj thiab dav heev sab hauv. Tsheb tavxij "peb qhov loj" tsis pom nyob ntawd. Tsuas yog xws li. Yog li ntawd, txoj haujlwm ntawm tus tsav tsheb tavxij yog kev hwm. Zoo, tau kawg - yuav, tswj, thiab caij ntawm no …
