Tus dais fidgeted ntawm windowsill, tom qab ntawd tshem nws caj pas thiab hais tias:
- Kuv nyiam yob, ci, ci thiab ncuav muffins! Kuv nyiam qhob cij, thiab ncuav, thiab ncuav, thiab qhob cij, txawm tias Tula, txawm tias zib ntab, txawm tias ci. Kuv nyiam sushki ib yam, thiab bagels, bagels, pies nrog nqaij, jam, zaub qhwv thiab mov.
Kuv nyiam dumplings dearly, thiab tshwj xeeb tshaj yog cheesecakes, yog tias lawv tshiab, tab sis qub, ib yam, tsis muaj dab tsi. Koj tuaj yeem siv cov ncuav qab zib oatmeal thiab vanilla crackers.
Thiab kuv kuj nyiam sprats, saury, marinated pike perch, gobies hauv lws suav sauce, ib daig hauv kuv tus kheej kua txiv, caviar eggplant, slices zucchini thiab qos yaj ywm kib …
Yog lawm! Kuv nyiam mis nyuj khov nrog tag nrho kuv lub siab. Rau xya, rau cuaj. Kaum peb, kaum tsib, kaum cuaj. Nees nkaum ob thiab nees nkaum yim."
Victor Dragunsky. Dab Tsi Xyooj Nyiam
Nco txog yav dhau los. Tom qab cov ntaub ntawv nrog kuv nco txog qhov tib neeg tau noj thaum lub sijhawm Soviet, ntau tus neeg siv lub vev xaib tau yws: nws zoo siab tias txhua yam tau dhau mus!.. Zoo, kuv twv tsis dag lawv txoj kev cia siab. Nov yog qhov txuas ntxiv ntawm cov khoom siv no. Thiab rau txhua tus neeg uas ntseeg tias qhov no tsis yog lub ntsiab lus tub rog, kuv yuav teb tias tub rog tshaib plab yuav tsis tawm tsam ntau, tias leej niam uas tsis tau txais zaub mov txawv thiab noj qab nyob zoo yuav tsis yug menyuam kom muaj kev noj qab haus huv thiab noj qab nyob zoo. tub rog yuav tsis pub, qhov tsis muaj iodine, thiab nws muaj peb nyob hauv Russia yog qhov zoo rau ntau thaj tsam thiab cov pejxeem pawg, ua rau muaj kev puas siab puas ntsws, nrog rau kev puas tsuaj rau cov qog pituitary hauv menyuam yaus los ntawm hluav taws xob, thiab tsis haus luam yeeb thaum tsis muaj cov citrus ntau txaus hauv tus menyuam txoj kev noj zaub mov yog qhov txaus ntshai ob npaug! Yog li qhov teeb meem ntawm zaub mov yog lub tswv yim tseem ceeb heev. Ntxiv mus, piav qhia cov paj lug paub zoo, ib tus tuaj yeem lees paub qhov tseeb: qhia rau kuv tias koj noj dab tsi, thiab kuv yuav qhia koj tias koj yog leej twg! Lub sijhawm kawg peb tau tso tseg ib qho chaw xyoo 1970 … Hnub no zaj dab neeg yuav pib xyoo 1972, thaum, tom qab kawm tiav los ntawm lub tsev kawm ntawv tshwj xeeb nrog lus Askiv, kuv nkag mus rau hauv Penza Pedagogical Institute. VG Belinsky ntawm qhov tshwj xeeb "Keeb Kwm thiab Lus Askiv". Tab sis hom duab twg kuv yuav tsum siv rau cov khoom no? Kuv xav thiab txiav txim siab: nrog cov duab ntawm ntau yam zaub mov qab uas txhua tus tuaj yeem ua noj hnub no. Yooj yim, pheej yig thiab qab. Kuaj zaum kawg!
Ntau tus ntawm no hauv cov lus rov nco txog yam lawv tau noj thaum lawv xyoo kawm ntawv. Tab sis kuv tsis nco qab qhov no. Muaj ib tus menyuam kawm ntawv lub tsev noj mov, muaj cov qos yaj ywm mashed nrog cutlet, thiab, tau kawg, cheesecakes thiab pies, tab sis kuv tsis nco qab tias nws yog txhua yam qab. Kuv yuav tsum kawm thiab saib xyuas cov ntxhais, vim tias muaj ntau ntawm lawv, thiab kuv nyob ib leeg. Txog lub sijhawm no, kuv niam tau sib yuav Pyotr Shpakovsky zaum ob thiab tawm mus rau Rostov, thiab tom tsev kuv tau nyob nrog tus yawg uas ntsiag to rau ntau xyoo thiab niam pog uas tau pw hauv tsev kho mob ib ntus vim muaj teeb meem nrog kev noj zaub mov tsis zoo: muaj zog zaub, zaub qhwv kua zaub nrog nqaij npuas, pob ntseg pob tshab … Txhua yam no tsis ntxiv kev noj qab haus huv rau nws (thiab rau kuv ib yam nkaus). Feem ntau, txhua yam zoo li hauv operetta "Ntxhais fuabtais ntawm Circus": "Kuv nkees nkees nkees ntawm lwm tus neeg qhov hluav taws kub, tab sis qhov twg yog lub plawv uas yuav hlub kuv." Thiab kuv txiv tshiab qhia kuv yuav ua li cas thiaj nrhiav tau tus khub hauv lub neej. Dhau li qhov tseeb tias nws yuav tsum zoo nkauj, ntxim nyiam thiab ntse … Saib, nws hais tias, zoo li tus poj niam zom zaub mov, thiab koj yuav tsis yuam kev! Nws yuav tsum tsis txhob zom hauv phaj thiab khaws zaub mov, thiab nws qab los yuav tsum yog qhov zoo, tab sis nws yuav tsum tsis txhob noj ntau dhau thaum noj hmo. Thaum noj mov, nws yuav tsum tuav rab diav rawg ntawm nws sab tes laug thiab rab riam nyob hauv nws sab xis. Saib nws niam: tus ntxhais rov ua nws "qhov ntev" thaum laus. Kaw koj ob lub qhov muag thiab mloog nws lub suab: nws tsis hloov nrog lub hnub nyoog laus (txawm hais tias txhua yam hloov pauv!), Thiab yog tias koj tsis txaus siab heev los mloog nws tam sim no, yuav muaj dab tsi tshwm sim tom ntej? Nws txoj kev taug yuav tsum yog lub teeb, nws caviar yuav tsum muaj qhov ntxim nyiam, thiab (tseem ceeb heev) nws yuav tsum tuaj yeem ua zaub mov zoo. Txhua yam ntxiv yuav ua raws.
Thiab, Kuv yuav tsum hais, cov lus qhia nws muab rau kuv tau muaj txiaj ntsig heev. Siv lawv, Kuv pom kuv tus kheej yog tus khub nrog kuv uas kuv tau nyob rau 46 xyoo, thiab tsis muaj ib zaug hauv txhua lub xyoo no xav tias kuv ua tsis raug rau qhov kuv xaiv. Nrog rau chav ua noj! Peb tau sib yuav tom qab xyoo thib ob, nyob rau lub caij ntuj sov xyoo 1974, thiab tam sim ntawd pib ua haujlwm hauv tsev nrog peb tus kheej thiab … thawj zaug tau mus ua ke mus yuav khoom noj khoom haus hauv ib lub khw koom tes ze. Tias yog vim li cas kuv nco txog hnub no tshwj xeeb tshaj yog zoo, nrog rau txhua yam uas peb tau pom lub sijhawm ntawd hauv lub khw no.
Muaj ib ntu zaub tshiab, thiab nws muaj cov crates ntawm qhov tsis zoo-pom qos yaj ywm sib xyaw nrog lub ntiaj teb, thiab cov qej qias neeg ib yam nkaus. Muaj hneev, tab sis me me. Kuj tseem muaj cov txiv lws suav ntsuab hauv cov tais thiab ntsev herring hauv lub thoob. Ntawm lub rhawv zeb muaj peb-liter poom ntawm lws suav, kua, txiv pear thiab kua txiv ntoo, ntxiv rau cov txiv lws suav thiab zaub qhwv, tsoos rau txhua lub khw Soviet nyob rau lub sijhawm ntawd. Tag nrho cov ntim no tau npog nrog hmoov av. Hauv kuv lub tswv yim, tsis muaj leej twg yuav lawv thaum ntawd.
Hauv seem mis nyuj muaj cov mis nyuj, mis hauv fwj, mis nyuj hauv lub hnab ntawv daim duab peb sab. Qaub cream hnyav thiab tawm hauv lub rhawv zeb. Mayonnaise "Provencal" thiab "Spring" (nrog dill). Butter los ntawm qhov hnyav, hauv pob, thiab ntawm ob hom: "tsuas yog butter" thiab "chocolate". Cov cheese tau nthuav tawm los ntawm "Rossiyskiy", "Poshekhonskiy", "Gollandskiy" thiab "Smoked". Kuj tseem muaj peb hom kev ua cheese, khoom noj txom ncauj rau cov neeg qaug cawv: "Lub Nroog", "Druzhba" thiab lwm yam. Cov no yog nyob hauv pob ntawv ua los ntawm "ntawv nyiaj". Ua cov cheese "Yantar" twb tau tshwm sim hauv cov yas yas, peb yuav nws ntau zaus. Muaj cov tsev cheese xoob thiab "curd mass", nrog rau cov ncuav curd nrog raisins (tshiab thiab qab heev).
Cov hnyuv ntxwm tau raws li hauv qab no: "Tus Kws Kho Mob", "Amateur" (cuam tshuam nrog nqaij npuas kib), "Livernaya" (qee yam yuav, tsis nyiam nws), thiab tseem haus ib nrab "Krakowska", thiab rog, zoo li npua, hauv ntuj casing - "Armavir" … Muaj cov hnyuv ntxwm, tab sis tsis muaj cov hnyuv ntxwm nyob hauv ib qho ntawm Penza khw muag khoom. Kuj tseem muaj ob hom lard: lard-bacon "Hungarian", nchuav nrog kua txob liab, thiab "tsuas" lard, txau nrog kua txob dub. Thiab tom qab ntawd muaj "Tambov Ham" - nqaij npua zoo tshaj "nrog kua muag." Kuj tseem muaj khoom qab zib ntau, tab sis … tsis muaj "noog mis". Qhov no tsuas yog los ntawm Moscow. Tab sis kuv nyiam truffles yog, tau ntim cov qhob noom xim kasfes, muaj kas fes taum thiab ntxhw tshuaj yej. Tsis muaj nqaij. Tom qab nws kuv yuav tsum mus rau hauv plawv nroog hauv "Myasnaya Passage", qhov uas kuv tau mus nrog kuv pog thiab txhua qhov kev xav tsis thoob ntawm nws qhov kev xaiv thiab kev yuav khoom nkag siab. Kuj tseem muaj kev lag luam nyob ze, qhov twg tus qaib raug nqi … tsuas yog 3 rubles, zoo, 3, 50, yog tias nws loj heev. Thiab lawv kuj tau muag nqaij ntawm luav thiab nutria, qab thiab, hauv kev sib piv nrog luav, loj heev "tsiaj" - "marsh beavers". Tam sim no hauv Penza lawv tsis tau muag lawm, tab sis hauv Pyatigorsk, Yeisk thiab Taman hauv khw Kuv tau hla lawv tsis ntev los no.
Yog li, raws li koj tuaj yeem pom, cov khoom sib txawv hauv xyoo 1972 hauv khw muag khoom hauv ib lub nroog zoo tib yam tau zoo heev. Tso cai, feem ntau, kom noj qab thiab txawv. Cov nqaij delicacies kuj tau ib ntus "pov tseg": "caj dab", "carbonade". Nws phem nrog ntses. Muaj ntau ntau hake. Muaj herring hauv cov thoob, tab sis, peb puas yuav hais, ntawm qib ob. Xyoo 1972, kuv txiv tshiab tau hu kuv mus rau Moscow, qhov uas nws ua haujlwm hauv cov ntaub ntawv khaws tseg ntawm cheeb tsam Moscow, thiab nyob hauv Tsev Rossiya. Muaj, cov hnyuv ntxwm thiab cov ntses sturgeon tau txais txoj cai hauv chav, tab sis … nws tsis yooj yim sua rau cov pej xeem ib txwm muaj kom tau txoj haujlwm nyob rau hauv txoj cai.
Tab sis rov qab, txawm li cas los xij, xyoo 1974. Kuv tus poj niam thiab kuv rov qab los tsev los ntawm lub khw, pib npaj noj hmo thiab … tam sim ntawd thawj zaug thiab tau sib cav. Thiab vim yog khoom noj! Peb tau mus ua kua zaub, yog li kuv tus poj niam xav kom kuv kib dos thiab carrots nrog nws. "Vim li cas? Thiab yog li nws yuav ua! " - "Tsis yog, nws yuav tsis! Nws yog tastier li no … "-" Kuv yuav tsis! Peb tsis ua qhov ntawd … "Lo lus rau lo lus, zoo, nws mus. Lawv tseem hluas, kub li rab phom. Raws li qhov tshwm sim, qhov txaus nyiam tshwm sim hauv kuv tsev neeg ntawm cov kws qhia ntawv, thiab txawm tias kuv niam, Ph. D., tus kws tshaj lij, tag nrho kuv lub neej, raws li kuv nco tau, lawv tau ua noj tsis raug. Nqaij, zaub, hauv paus - lawv txhua tus tau nchuav rau hauv saucepan ib zaug, muab tso rau qhov hluav taws kub thiab … kuv yawg tau zaum, ua noj "nws" tau ob teev. Nqaij nrog zaub! Nws tau dhau los ua "fucking", raws li kuv tus poj niam hluas hais rau kuv, tab sis kuv tsis paub qhov ntawd! Thiab ntawm no ntawm Proletarskaya Street lawv tau ua noj zoo li ntawd hauv txhua tsev neeg uas kuv paub. Tab sis peb kuj muaj phau ntawv "Ntawm cov zaub mov qab thiab noj qab nyob zoo" thiab "Cov tub ntxhais kawm ntawv txoj kev noj haus", thiab kuv tau nyeem lawv, tab sis … Kuv tsis tau ua li ntawd! Nov yog lub zog inertial ntawm tib neeg txoj kev xav. Yog li, thaum, tsis sib xws rau qhov pom tseeb ntawm no, ntawm "VO", qee tus hais tias "txiav plaub hau", thaum qhov tseeb "shaved", Kuv tsis xav tsis thoob li. Lawv pom tiag tiag, xav li ntawd, thiab nws tsis muaj txiaj ntsig kiag li yaum lawv.
Lub sijhawm ntawd kuv muaj txaus los lees tias kuv tus poj niam hais yog lawm, thiab cov kua zaub tau hloov pauv mus ua qhov qab. Kuv yuav tsum hais tias lub khw "Khoom Plig Zoo" qhib hauv Penza yog qhov kev pab zoo rau peb tsev neeg hluas nyob rau xyoo ntawd. Ntxiv nrog rau cov txiv ntoo kim thiab cov kua ntoo ib txwm muaj, thaum lub caij ntuj no lawv muag dawb ib sab thiab quails, tab sis tsis tau plucked, hauv plaub. Nqaij qaib nqi 1 ruble, thiab quail - 50 kopecks. Peb ntu - peb cov kua zaub lossis ob txoj kev kawm tseem ceeb rau peb tsev neeg ntawm peb, vim ib xyoos tom qab peb twb muaj tus ntxhais lawm, thiab nws tau loj hlob sai heev. Tom qab ntawd cov menyuam chav ua noj kuj tau pab ntau yam (peb muaj hmoo, nws nyob tsis deb ntawm peb lub tsev!), Qhov uas peb tau txais cov khoom sib xyaw ntawm "V-oats", "V-kefir", "Taum curd", txawm hais tias qee zaum peb muaj sawv ntsug hauv kab. Tab sis … tom qab ntawd tsis muaj zaub mov me nyuam ntau npaum li tam sim no. Los ntawm txoj kev, cov menyuam chav ua noj no tseem ua haujlwm rau peb niaj hnub no, tab sis peb tus ntxhais xeeb ntxwv, uas yug xyoo 2002, pom tias tsis tsim nyog. Txhua yam koj xav tau tuaj yeem yuav tom khw muag tshuaj thiab hauv khw muag khoom noj. Tab sis tom qab ntawd, kuv rov hais dua, hauv 70s, nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb pab hauv zaub mov me nyuam.
Tsis yog xyoo 1975, tsis yog xyoo 1976, lossis xyoo 1977, thaum peb kawm tiav hauv tsev kawm qib siab thiab tau mus qhia hauv lub tebchaws, peb puas tau pom muaj qhov tsis zoo ntawm cov khoom. Kev txom nyem, thiab ncaj ncees, tos txais peb lub khw muag khoom noj nyob deb nroog. Yog li kuv tus kws qhia ntawv txawm hais kom kuv nqa ib pob butter los ntawm lub nroog, thiab kuv nqa tuaj. Tab sis thaum peb xyoos uas peb tau siv nyob ntawd, qhov xwm txheej tau hloov pauv ntau heev.
Cov kua txiv hmab txiv ntoo tseem nyob, cov dib thiab cov taub tseem nyob, tab sis txhua yam ntxiv tam sim no "raug pov tseg" thaum txog tsib teev, thaum cov neeg ua haujlwm rov los tsev los ntawm lub hoobkas. Thiab tom qab ntawd peb cov neeg pom txoj hauv kev tawm! Niam pog los ntawm txhua lub tsev uas sawv ib ncig ntawm lub khw, thaum 5-6 teev sawv ntxov (!) Mus rau nws, nqa ib kab, thiab sawv ntawm qhov ntawd, hloov pauv ib leeg. Lub qhov rais ntawm kuv chav tsev saib tsis tau raws nraim lub khw no thiab kab no. Yog li nws yooj yim heev rau peb los tswj cov txheej txheem ntawm kev sawv. Cov kab ntawv tsis ntev, tab sis los ntawm tsib teev nws nce ntau dua kaum npaug: lawv cov menyuam, cov xeeb ntxwv, cov txheeb ze, cov phooj ywg ntawm cov txheeb ze thiab cov txheeb ze ntawm cov phooj ywg tau txuas nrog cov pog, yog li thaum lub khw qhib thiab pib "muab" butter rau hauv ntim rau cov neeg pluag mus los ntawm lub hoobkas cov neeg ua haujlwm tsuas tuaj yeem txuas nrog cov kab loj loj, uas lawv tau ua, nrov nrov foom tsis zoo rau cov poj niam laus sawv pem hauv ntej thiab lwm tus zoo li lawv.
Thiab koj tuaj yeem nkag siab lawv. Tsuas yog los ntawm peb tsev neeg tsib tus neeg sawv hauv kab, thiab yog tias lawv "muab" ob pob ntawm butter, tom qab ntawd … peb yuav 10 ntawm lawv thiab tam sim ntawd khiav rov qab mus rau tom qab ntawm kab rau ib pawg tshiab. Qee zaum nws tuaj yeem tau txais cov roj thib ob! Thiab qhov xwm txheej, tsawg kawg hauv peb lub tebchaws hauv Penza, tau mob zuj zus zuj zus mus txog xyoo 1985, thaum nrog lub zog los ntawm M. Gorbachev tau tshwm sim, tsis yog, tsis yog zaub mov, tab sis tsawg kawg vam tias yuav txhim kho. Zoo, dab tsi tshwm sim tom ntej yuav qhia rau lwm zaus.
P. S. "Daim ntawv qhia los ntawm tus ua noj." Ib qho ntawm kuv nyiam Italian zaub mov txawv, uas, los ntawm txoj kev, Kuv nyiam heev: Tuscan Gourmet Sauce. Txiav ib phaus ntawm zucchini peeled rau hauv cubes thiab simmer hauv ib khob dej hauv lub lauj kaub frying kom txog thaum dej npau tawm. Ntsev. Yuav ua li cas ua noj - ntxiv butter, ob lub voos xwmfab nrog walnuts. Txias, muab tso rau hauv lub tshuab ziab khaub ncaws, ntxiv 15 nplooj zaub basil (koj tuaj yeem muaj ntshav liab - tshuaj xyuas!) Thiab "rab" kom txog thaum sib xws. Ntsev yog tias tsim nyog. Koj tuaj yeem kis nws ntawm bruschetta crispbreads, kub thiab txias, muab cov nplej zom thiab tsuas yog noj cov ntses no nrog rab diav nrog rau hnyuv ntxwm! Ua rau koj tus poj niam thiab lawv yuav qhuas koj!
